
GOOD MORNING NORTH KOREA!
Anyone who knows me, knows I disdain making plans for pretty much anything, especially trips. I like to go when I want to, when I feel like it. It is the anticipation of schedules that leads to some high anxiety for me. I’d rather make a mad rush at the last minute, than to pre-plan and walk in an hour early.
I had been told that there were busses leaving to DanDong from 8:00am to 4:00pm every hour. This helped give me some leeway with my “non-schedule”. I got up one morning, went to the bus station and tried to purchase a ticket for the next bus. It was 9:00am, but the woman told me there was only one bus every morning, and it left at 8:30.
I gave in and bought a ticket for the following day to DanDong. (Why a bus and not a train? Trains take 10 hours, busses take 5 ½ hours… don’t ask me.)
When I bought the ticket, I noticed on the screen it was 97.50, but the lady asked me for 98.50. I’m starting to give in to this occurrence. I’ll let them have their little victories (#1).
The next morning, I was feeling… crappy. But I got to the hot, stuffy bus station and waited. While I was there, I was reminded of the differences of television broadcasts here… in a way that did not make my morning any happier. A program was on about road safety. I have seen, and tried to avoid these at all costs. They show everything, when it comes to wrecks… with cars or pedestrians. I looked up, just in time to see a bus smack into two people walking across the road. That’s an image I didn’t want in my head while waiting to board the bus.
While standing in line, I happened to do something without even trying. I caused a terminal full of people waiting on busses, to laugh at me. A man walked in front of me, holding his granddaughter. She was leaning over his shoulder and caught site of me. I looked at her, smiled, and waved. She immediately went into the loudest wailing I have heard to date.
When he turned around and saw me, he, his wife, and the rest of the place just burst into laughter as I apologized profusely for being scary. No matter what he did to get her attention away from me, no matter how far away he walked, she would twist her head around to look at me and scream. There was nothing I could do but put on my sunglasses and try to avoid her line of sight. It was pretty funny.
When I got to DanDong, what little plans I had were cut short for reasons I won’t go into. But it didn’t stop me from getting out and about.
DanDong is a nice city on the Yalu River, bordering N. Korea. I was amazed at the size of the city and its beauty. All along the riverside, there is a nice “boardwalk” with many people in all sorts of activities.

The bustling city and skyline of tall buildings was a stark contrast to the pretty much desolate banks of N. Korea. I literally saw only one light coming from the opposite bank.

There are two bridges at the river, one is a working, guarded bridge, the other is… well... the remnants of what the U.N. bombed in 1950. The Chinese side is nicely built, but halfway across the river, all that is left are the pylons. That particular bridge was built by the Japanese from their conquest of the Korean peninsula, on their way to Manchuria.

I want to stress U.N. and not U.S. I wanted so much to tell the park guide that the huge historical sign was inaccurate, but I knew it would have probably ruffled some feathers, and then gone on deaf ears.

Jay and I had a laugh when I asked her why she thought the UN bombed the bridge. She said she didn’t know, so I said, “Because they got tired of you sending them all those supplies.”
(And, for those of you Chinese who still think that the war in Korea was just imperialist America on its way to invade China, ask yourself two things: Why did the bombing stop at the border? What, other than the 1990 Gulf War, was the only war sanctioned by the U.N.? There were over 15 countries involved in that war, and each has monuments somewhere in Korea, to their war dead. The Gulf War was a reaction to a country invading another; Iraq invading Kuwait on August 2nd, 1990. The Korean War was a reaction to a country invading another; N. Korea invading S. Korea on June 25th, 1950. China became a member of the U.N. on October 24th, 1945, they did not veto. The Chinese seat on the U.N. at the time of the Korean War was held by KMT. Would the US want to invade its allies? The U.N. never attacked China, however on November 25th, 1950, China attacked the U.N.)
Another strange occurrence happened when I looked at my pictures from this time… The “park ranger”/soldier at one of the towers resembled someone… I can’t quite put my finger on it…

One afternoon, Jay and I decided to try our hand at fishing. We went and bought some clams at a market, and were on our way (of course I brought a rod and tackle with me to China). On the way, I stopped by a stand that was selling all sorts of souvenirs. I decided to indulge in my addiction and buy a complete set of N. Korean currency, bills and coins. After figuring that the conversion rate was a little over 300:1, I again let the man have his victory by buying the lot for 25元 more than it was worth (#2).
While concluding this transaction, a couple with their teenage son approached. I had learned from experience, that their body language reflected their wanting to test their sons English ability. So, as I always do, I gave in happily.
I found out that the father was also a teacher, of mathematics and chemistry. When Jay let them know she attended BoHai, they seemed quite happy. The mother had also gone there. When I explained that I taught there, they were even happier; it seems their daughter is going to be a freshman this coming term at BoHai.
They invited us to dinner and we accepted (free meals… I can’t turn down). We went to a nice Japanese place and talked for a long time. I made some new friends. The father said he never thought he would have a chance to have dinner with a foreigner, much less become a friend to one.
When we parted company, it was raining, so the fishing trip came to an end… as did my ownership of the said clams.
Let me tell you about hotels in China, or at least the many I have stayed in. They are quite nice, and have what you would find in any western hotel. There are some differences though. Many of the “safe” ones have some sort of entertainment (KTV) in them. And, since they want to attract people to their hotel, it is usually on a top floor, so people can see the lights. This is something you want to think about when it comes to choosing a floor.

Another difference is the fact that, since clothes dryers are not a common commodity, the laundry room is closest to the place where they would dry their bed sheets… On the roof, in the open air. Just another thing you want to remember when choosing a floor. Industrial washing machines can make some racket.

I was nicely perched below both of them. (I leerrn slowlee)
I went to the antiques market in town and picked up a few things of interest. There are always many things I would like to have, but the authenticity of them is always a question. One thing I did find, that just made me think, was a U.S. cent/penny dated 1952s. One has to wonder if it may have come from a soldier or how it actually did find it’s way to northeast China, so close to the border of N. Korea. I also picked up some old KMT currency. The man wanted 100 for each of them, I walked out having paid 10 for each.
One night, as I came in, I went to the snack counter to buy a drink. I know they are overpriced, but I was tired. When I asked the lady at the counter how much the drink was, she said she would have to ask. She looked at a lady at the reception desk and asked her. The woman replied that it was 8元. As I was handing the woman at the snack counter a 10, the lady from the reception desk came over to “relieve” her. So I handed her the 10 instead. I waited for the change, but the woman looked at me and said the drink was 10. When I told her I thought she said 8, she replied that the other lady did not know the right price. I wanted so much to tell her, “Yes, I know, but it was YOU who told her it was 8!” But, instead, I let her have her victory (#3).
As I approached the elevator, I noticed a woman who had just gotten off. I pressed the button, waiting for it to return, and she looked at me and started speaking English to me. Her English was not the best, but she asked if she could speak with me. Many people will do this to practice, and I don’t mind it too much.
We talked for a while, and then the elevator came. I was surprised when she got on with me. I thought maybe I had made a mistake and she was just waiting for the elevator the whole time. I started to get a little suspicious when she got off on the same floor as me. Then, she asked if it was ok if she came into my room, and we could continue talking. (A note to my friend David… remember the tattoo I have?)

Anyway, I was just going to watch some TV, so I told her it was ok for a little while, but then I needed to get some sleep. We talked for about an hour, and then she came out with, “I can have sex with you for 400元.”
When we woke up the next morning… I’M JOKING!!!!!!!!!!!!
When she said that, I politely declined and she left. I’ll let you decide if it was an issue of looks, money, or morals.
The next morning, I went out for a walk. I stopped by a little stand to pick up some cigarettes. When I handed the man a 5, he acted as if he was not going to give me change. When I asked how much they were, he said 5. I then told him I could take five steps and buy them for 4 from another vendor; he smiled and admitted they were 4. (I don’t buy bus tickets, Korean money, or drinks from hotels every day, but cigarettes are something different. I didn’t let him have this victory.)

Monkey Sister (Jay), Gerdy, and Kiko. Students and friends.
Getting home is not like planning for a trip. Getting home is relief for me from any anxiety I may have. So, keeping this in mind, I decided one day to take a walk to the bus station and buy my return ticket.
Any time I walk the streets of any city, men seem to want to act silly and use the sighting of a foreigner as a way to “impress” their friends. Hearing the lonely call of the 东北男人 is a common occurrence, and usually sounds something like this… “HelloAh! Hahahahaha” and is repeated, in increasing volume, until it hears a reply; then it turns into just “HAHAHAHAHA!!”
Since DanDong is even further northeast, there are fewer foreigners. I would say the reactions from the citizens increased twofold.
On my way to the bus station, I heard several of these calls. As I was almost at the station, the roughest looking person to do it so far, started in on it. He looked like a stereotype for a hitman in the Chinese mafia; shirtless, muscular, shaved head, gold tooth, and tattoos included. For some reason, I still can’t understand why, I walked over and started talking to him… in Chinese. He was shocked, to say the least, it didn’t follow the normal calling routine. We actually had quite a lively, fun, decent conversation which was quickly turned into a gathering of about 50 people.
When I finally did go home, I noticed he was in the same place, I threw up my hand to wave, and he waved and said hello. I think it made his day, because those who were standing around him looked at him as if they could not believe we knew each other. We both smiled at that.
The other thing that happened quite frequently, and is something I have come to thoroughly enjoy, were the interactions with children and their parents. The parents are always overly encouraging their children to talk, but I try to stop them. I don’t want the kids frightened of me.
I will always squat down so that I am below their eye level, and say something in Chinese to them or make them laugh. A few minutes of this, and they are acting like my best friend.
While in line to get my ticket, I noticed a little girl peering at me through the handrail of the ticket booth. She had a plastic toy in her hand and she smiled at me and acted like she was hitting me with it. She would hide her eyes behind the rails and I would cover my face with my hands. She tugged on her mother’s shirt-tail and pointed me out to her. We exchanged smiles, but the girl kept acting like she wanted to beat me, smiling the whole time.
After I got my ticket, I noticed her and her mother were getting ready to enter the terminal. I called to her; the mother heard me and pointed me out to the girl. When she turned around, she was about a meter away from me. The little girl smiled from ear to ear, turned quickly and ran away screaming and giggling. I seem to have that same problem with all women.

When I got back to JinZhou, as I was walking down the street, a woman came up to me and, in Chinese, asked me if I knew where some money she had, had come from. It was a bill from Brazil, so I tried my best to explain it to her. I finally remembered the word, but I was saying it wrong, so I asked Jay to send me the Chinese characters.
As we talked, I showed her the money I had picked up from N. Korea. When I flipped to the last of them, I had forgotten about the two KMT bills I had in there. An elderly man who was in the gathering crowd, flew over and his eyes got really big and he picked one up. He smiled and said, “This is worth 100 yuan.” Hahaha
It was at that moment a police car came up. I did not realize it, but the crowd had grown so much that many were blocking a side street. When I looked up and apologized, the policeman was a little shocked. I guess he was glad to see it was just people, in interest, gathering around a foreigner, and not some major problem. He smiled and we all cleared the road.